Spring 2017 Nepal Trek Trip Report

Mera Peak Climb Becomes Kala Patthar Trek

Premonition

Our family was eating dinner at Sherpa's restaurant in Boulder one evening and Pemba, the owner and brother of our guide, walked by and said (I'm paraphrasing here):
     "I hear you are going to Nepal."
     "Yes." I said.
     "How long will you be there?"
     "One month," I replied.
     "You are a brave man."
     I didn't know what he meant by this but it sounded nice.  A few months later I was at Sherpa's restaurant again.  It was the day before we left for Nepal.  Pemba was there again, looking somewhat concerned.
     "If I were you, I would turn around.  Think of the porter's well being."
     I really did not know what to make of this.  After all, we were still in the U.S. and the brother of our guide is telling me to turn back and think of the porters.  Looking back, maybe Pemba Sherpa was right on both occasions.  Maybe my wife and I are brave for taking such an audacious adventure with our 9 year old son.  And turns out we did turn back considering the well being of the porters and everyone else involved.

Reflection

When we were back home, my son Max told me, "Dad.  Going to Nepal is like going to Narnia.  It's like a dream.  I can't believe we were just there."  I thought about what he was suggesting and I could see similarities.  In a matter of a few plane rides, we were transported (as walking through the wardrobe in C.S. Lewis's The Lion, The Witch, and The Wardrobe) to a new, distant and very unfamiliar place.  The following are some thoughts, memories and photos of that place.

Kathmandu as seen from the airplane on landing

Our family on the Hotel Thamel rooftop, ready for adventure

Jeff writing the first journal entry in Phaplu

Journal Entries

3/4/2017
We just had a restful night in our first tea house of the trip. This is our 6th day since leaving on February 26th from Boulder.  We began like always with a bus ride from the stop in front of NIST. We checked our bags all the way through to Kathmandu, and they arrived! One apple, left in my pack, turned to apple sauce, but everything was there. We had a 10-hour layover in Doha, Qatar, after our 14-hour flight. The highlight in Doha was a two-and-a-half-hour night-time tour of the city, complete with Nepalese tour guides and a market tour in the old town.

Islamic Cultural Center 

Max and the pets for sale at the market in "old" Doha

After the tour, we left Doha and flew over portions of Iran, Pakistan and India before landing in Kathmandu on Feb 28th. Chhongba, our guide, was there waiting when we arrived at the airport. On the 1st of March we spent the entire day touring Bhaktapur with the family of Narayan, a recent Ph.D. in ecology and a colleague of my wife, Chris. Narayan and his family graciously hosted us for an entire day. Bhaktapur felt different than the previous 2 times I had visited. We saw more damage from the April 2015 earthquake in this town than anywhere else on the entire trip. The townspeople are rebuilding their homes and shops. In many cases they are reusing the bricks and other materials from the destroyed buildings. The town is known for its clay pottery but on this day we did not see any of the commercial operations running (hand spun wheels and outdoor kilns). Instead, Max and Naryan's son Alin enjoyed a pottery lesson at a small pottery shop. They each made a couple items on a motorized wheel and painted other pieces that were already made. Later, the boys played with glider airplanes in Durbar square.

The best way to see a new place is with good friends

Max's first pottery wheel experience

Alin knows the shop owner and is practically a professional already : )

On March 2 we loaded our gear and drove to the airport for our flight to Phaplu. After waiting all morning they announced a flight cancellation due to high wind. We went back and spent another night at Hotel Thamel. The following day we opted to take a jeep ride from Kathmandu to Phaplu.  : )

Our ride to Phaplu, a TaTa Sumo from India

It turned out to be nearly a 12-hour, 180 mile adventure. A harrowing ride, not to be repeated. At one point the road was gone and we were diverted to an off-road route used to service the power lines.

Van full of people unprepared for the dramatic change of plans.  Eventually they made it, with the persistence of the driver.

The most rugged overland route I have ever ridden. There were infinite switchbacks and blind corners.  After completing 90% of the drive, we pulled over to a lot full of more Tata Sumos and our driver got out.  Tired, he was replaced by a new driver for the remaining 10% of the drive.  Keep in mind the entire trip is only 180 miles.

Long slow ride to Phaplu after a canceled flight

But finally we made it, as darkness fell, to the Everest Hotel in Phaplu. This morning we awoke to mountain views, a world apart from the scenes of Kathmandu, and began our trek toward Mera Peak. We stopped for lunch at a "cheese factory" in Ringmu, a tea house that sold us a heavy block of yak cheese that should sustain us for a while. This is where I stayed with my climbing partners Todd and Tom in 2001 on our bid to climb Imja Tse, Island Peak. Chhongba, who was also our guide in 2001, pointed out the route we followed into to Ringmu on that previous trip, which began in Jiri instead of Phaplu. We could also see La Manjura pass, another sight from our 2001 trek. Now, in 2017, a new road is being built from Phaplu to Lukla, and today we walked on a dirt road--instead of trails--all the way from Phaplu to Ringmu.

Max's first view of a Himalayan peak from his room in Phaplu.  It looks like a painting but is the actual view out the window.

Building the road from Phaplu to Lukla by hand using hammer and chisel.  They lay each stone on edge, covering the least surface area but lasting forever.

Looking toward La Manjura pass as we start out from Phaplu.  Pasang Tamang carries our climbing equipment. Our other porter, Pasang Sherpa (not shown here), carried a similar load.

This first day turned out to be a whopper of a hike for all of us, especially Max, who was experiencing everything for the first time. The entire afternoon was down hill to Nunthala (the cargo donkey staging area), and Max's toes were jamming in his boots. He was absolutely wiped out, but would not stop. He recovered well at the tea house, slept well, and was ready to go in the morning.

Donkeys eating grain after a long day on the trail.

3/5/17
Everyone sang happy birthday to me this morning before I ate porridge. I turned 56 years old. We continued where we left off yesterday and walked downhill all morning. We walked the equivalent of one day downhill to descend a foothill. We ate lunch near the Dudh Kosi river, watching a man hammer rocks into gravel. The gravel was needed for a concrete project. The afternoon consisted of a direct walk up and over a pass to Khare Khola. We walked past many rhododendrons in full bloom (bright red) and also many donkey trains. The donkeys carry propane tanks and rice up to Namche Bazaar. Each time we stop at a tea house, we have the entire place to ourselves.  We might cross paths with other trekkers, but they never stay at the same tea house. The weather has been mostly clear. The temperature gets up to 70 F in the sun. At night the air cools to around 50 F and we wear sweaters inside for dinner each night.

The walk to Mera Peak is full of rhododendron forests. These trees are used for everything wooden and for warmth when burned.

3/6/17
We arrived in Pangom today, after a long walk from Khare Khola (4 hours). We met 4 Europeans and their guide going the other direction. The guide told us that 2 of the 4 summitted Mera Peak. I hope we will also be successful in summitting Mera. We walked uphill all morning through rhododendron forests. The trail rose abruptly right out of Khare Khola and the grade seldom relented. Max was great again, carrying his own pack all the way.

Sustainable lumber operation. The workers erect a platform and saw lumber where the tree falls. The lumber is then carried by human power to where it is used. No terrain is too difficult for these lumberjacks.

3/7/17
Today we had an epic hike. We left Pangom (9500'), ascended through the rhododendrons to 10400', and then descended into a steep-walled canyon all morning, losing 3000'. We had lunch at a place perched on a rock outcropping. This was the steepest hiking trail I have ever seen. There was a bridge at the bottom of the canyon and the view was spectacular, with waterfalls and blue pools. After lunch, we ascended "direct", up 2000' to Narjing Dingma. Max performed wonderfully, carrying his pack the whole day. His spirits are high and his health is good, despite the constant effort every day. We are all doing well, although Chris developed a sore throat at Pangom. This was our most strenuous day so far. Tomorrow we will head up over a pass above Najing Dingma (9,500') and then to Chalem Kharka (12,000'). Kharka means animal ranch.

Steep terrain on the way to Narjing Dingma. We had lunch down near the river (see waterfall) before hiking up the far side, which is equally steep.

Narjing Dingma

3/8/17
Another whopper day. The first ridge we climbed was merely a warm-up. I had told Max we were in the Hinku Valley, but we were not. Spectacular none the less. About 10100' high. From there, we meandered across ridge-tops, passing through a high meadow and an old rhododendron forest. There were no tea houses along the way, and we arrived pretty gassed. Near the end of the hike, at about 2:00 pm, we passed the first snow on the trail. Surprisingly, it was next to bamboo growing on the hillside. The temperature is around 35 F inside and outside. We hiked all day wearing long-sleeve shirts. Once you stop, the sweat evaporating off your back chills you right down. Chris and Max are in their room with down jackets on, in the same bed, under a comforter. Max is really settling into the routine. Chris has a cold and is hanging in there. Max has not complained a single time. His spirit is inspiring to all of us. He only needed help carrying his pack on the 1st day. He is getting stronger each day. At times he even sings while we march up a long morning's climb. Right now rain/sleet/snow are falling outside and I am thankful we are in a tea house. The temperature is about 35 F but if you wear enough clothes it feels warm inside. This lodge opened only two days ago.

Chalem Kharka. Chhongba, Max, and Jeff arriving before the snow.

3/9/17
We hiked up over another steep pass. I find it challenging to eat dal bhat at night, oat meal in the morning, and strike out immediately up a steep pathway. The paths are often stone steps, 4 to 6 inches wide, and often go directly up the fall line of a slope. When the fall line becomes too steep for a stairway, switchbacks are added, and each switchback is only about 10 feet long. We encountered snow on the other side of the first pass. We were a bit under-dressed as we pressed through a no-lunch day. We stopped in a shepherd's hut to have some coconut cookies and yak cheese before moving on from the top of that first pass. We were in the clouds, and it snowed the entire day. At one point, the clouds cleared and we had a brief glimpse of a high mountain lake. As we passed the lake, we saw tridents standing in the rocks. This reminded me of Jason and the Argonauts. We descended carefully down a snow-covered, narrow staircase to Khola Kharka. This lodge had just opened for the season, and the keeper was out collecting firewood for cooking. The lodge sits above treeline around 12000', so he was going to be a while. The place was all locked up except for one ground-floor room where two porters were sleeping huddled under a comforter. We piled into this room to get out of a bitterly cold wind. The room was about 10-by-10 feet and included 2 beds and, at one point, 10 people. We were very cold, and the cookies and yak cheese had long since worn off. Chris was very sick and weak after the challenging hike. Pasang Sherpa found a bamboo mat under one bed and began breaking it into small pieces and piling them between the two beds on the dirt floor. Then he lit the pile! We were in a tiny room with the door closed and a fire burning between two beds, with no chimney. Thankfully, Chhongba came in soon to tell us the lodge-keeper had arrived. We grabbed our packs, moved the sack of rice that was barring the door against the wind, and set ourselves up in our 20 F room.  The lodge sat on a flat area in a high cirque.

One of many steep stairways on the way to Mera Peak.

Leaving Chalem Kharka in the morning, the snow began to fall. Chris found pika tracks in the snow (bottom left on top of a rock).

Max and Jeff approaching a frozen lake.  The clouds parted only briefly for Chris to take this picture.  We hiked through dense clouds and snow the rest of the day.

Pasang Sherpa building a fire in the room of a lodge to keep warm.  Wow!

Walking down to Khola Kharka which sits in a huge cirque at about 12,000 feet.

3/10/17
After oatmeal (made by the keeper of a wood oven) we climbed a steep pass.  As soon as we topped out, the snow, clouds and cold returned. The temperature was 15 F and we were covered in frost. After the pass, we would head downhill all day,  6 and 1/2 hours in clouds and snow, to Kothe, a small village next to the Hinku river. The highlight of this day was finding snow leopard tracks in the fresh snow and enjoying a brief warm-up to 45 F as the sun peeked out once. Chris was very tired near the end, still struggling with a cold. Also, we never know when the day will end, being unfamiliar with the terrain and our destination. But on this day we didn't even have to get to the end of the trail before we found some relief: we were greeted by 2 Sherpa women bearing hot black tea at a point on the trail that turned out to be about 20 minutes from Kothe. Those women and the tea they offered was a beautiful sight to behold, in our tired state. We had again hiked without lunch and were feeling the effects. Upon arriving in Kothe, we put our things in our room and gathered in the dining room for an evening around the wood stove : ). It was the first wood stove we had seen on this trek, and it was very welcome. Chris enjoyed the heat, and it restored much of her energy.

Max and Jeff hiking up out of Khola Kharka in the morning. The bottom of the cirque is around 12,000 feet elevation.

Snow leopard tracks up high along the trail to Kothe.

Making a snowy, one-way descent to Kothe. Enough snow fell in the next day to make a retreat unsafe for the porters.

Chris called these two ladies the Tea Angels from Kothe. Rightly so. They appeared out of nowhere with hot tea for us to drink, when we were still 20 minutes from Kothe trying to finish our trek for the day.

3/11/17
The morning after a nice sleep, the snow continues to fall. The Sherpas lit the wood stove and Chhongba discussed our options. There are 4 routes in and out of Kothe. One is the Mera Peak route and that is off the table due to the deep snow here and more up high. The second is a high pass (2 days) to Lukla and is impassible due to deep snow. The 3rd route is the way we came here and that is impassible due to deep snow. The 4th and last option is to wait here for better weather (sunshine) and take a new, snow-covered route that will loop us back to Pangom. From there we would head up to Lukla and either trek a loop through Gokyo or fly to the Annapurna region and trek a loop there.

Max and his new friend Daputi play in the snow while we decide how to escape from the Hinku Valley and change our plans from a Mera Peak climbing trip to a Kala Patar trekking trip.

Daputi enjoying the snow and sharing in friendship.

The team coming to grips with the idea that the climb has just been called off due to more than a meter of snow at the Mera Peak base camp, and pondering plans for an evacuation by foot the next morning.

This is as close as we would get to Mera Peak on this trip. This is looking at its south slope from Kothe. Mera is the peak in the center. The popular route traverses a glacier to the summit from the north side of the mountain. That glacier is two more days walking from Kothe.

3/12/17
15 F. Total evacuation operation now. The climbing group above Kothe at Thangnak was evacuated by helicopter. They had over 1 meter of snow. We started our evacuation from Kothe at about 11:00 because we waited to hear by phone if anyone would be at a key outpost along our route later today. This was key because we would need a sheltered place to rest and eat some warm food. We got word by cell phone that someone would be at the outpost, and they were. The morning sun soon turned to snow and we hiked 6 1/2 hours along steep and narrow trails in clouds, snow (1 foot deep), bamboo, rhododendrons and towering trees, arriving at the outpost in the dark. Max regained his strength after a bowl of ramen-style noodles at about 1:00 pm. He began singing church hymns and Christmas carols around 5:00 pm. He was in the zone as he lead us down to the outpost. He is truly inspiring. Chris has an upper respiratory cold and the lead guide during the evacuation, Rudra Rai, carried her pack and his for the last 2 hours.

Leaving Kothe and heading toward Lukla in a round-about way.

3/13/17
Slept great last night in little more than a shed with a steeply sloping dirt floor. 30 F this morning. I see blue sky. We are going about 7 hours to a place near a Sherpa museum. Every day so far has been a stiff 6 to 7 hour effort, often without lunch, made harder now with 1 foot of fresh snow covering the already challenging trails. All day yesterday we followed the tracks of a wild mountain goat; Chris said it was using our trail as the best of a bad lot. The conditions make the effort beyond hiking. Intense, long mental efforts are required with strong courage and bravery at times. Rudra Rai is surprised with Max's strength and resolve. He told Max more than once that he is a very strong boy. That's as good as any summit. Tonight, we stumbled into a lodge at Sebuche in the dark after 10 long, hard hours and the now infamous lunch of ramen-style noodles. Along the way, we had what seemed like a never-ending climb through steep snow (approximately 2 hours continuous). The north-facing slopes held at least 1 foot of snow. In some places the slopes were about 35 degrees (slide-prone). The snow was being held in place by rhododendron trees. This was an extremely difficult day and we are glad to be out of danger for now.

Everyone put in an exceptional day traveling over steep snow covered slopes.

Max and Jeff on the self-evacuation out of the Hinku valley

Max and Rudra Rai negotiate a descent as we are starting to leave the snow behind.

Rudra Rai contemplates the trail down to his right.

3/14/17
The three of us were slow to start this morning, after the effort yesterday. We powered down some oats and hard boiled eggs before starting up. We were over the top and into Pangom in about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Max left his knife in Pangom (where the boy in the gold jacket lives). His mom remembered us and served us Ramen for lunch. Here we heard the most foul American rap music I have ever heard, playing on a boom-box while the boy's mom served us the day's Ramen with a smile as though nothing unusual was happening. We walked 5 1/2 hours today, heading toward Lukla. The clouds threatened and Chhongba found a lodge just before the rain came down. This place is called Kharte. My stomach was a bit painful this morning but never became worse (even after eating and drinking). Gloomy outside.

Many thanks to Rudra Rai for leading us safely out of the Hinku valley.  You are an inspiration.

Two days out of Kothe and the snow.  We were able to look back at the mountain we traversed going from Khola Kharka to Kothe.  We came over the top on the right side and traversed across the snowy area and down into the bottom of the valley.

Sawing lumber for a new guest house in Pangom

3/15/17
4:00 pm  We just pulled into a tea house within view of Lukla, after 7 hours including lunch at the Bee Hive lodge in Poyan. In the morning, we left the towering lodge with the great view of Khari Khola and hiked directly higher. We hiked an old narrow trail (now in the Khumbu). After a while we descended directly down to the main trail from Jiri to Lukla. It was fine except the donkey trains are back. They poop so much it is like hiking in a barn yard at times. Highlights today were trying to keep pace with 4 older women, each carrying an 80-pound sack of rice and wearing flip-flops. We also met 9 Australian men going to climb Mera Peak, Amphu Labtsa and Island Peak. They had many porters and planned to camp the whole way. They didn't ask for any Beta, which I thought was odd. They were on their first day of trekking and one guy told Chris not to worry because the trail gets easier. Chris wasn't worried. We are on our 12th day of trekking today, and we have the odor to show for it. We met the Japanese couple we first met in Phaplu. They said (with their hands) the snow is 1 foot deep at Everest base camp. We came half way around the world to climb and it looks like we are still going to give it a try. Kala Patthar, at 18,500 feet, is our objective now. Everyone is in good spirits and looking strong. This effort should take 10 or 11 days. Max has already forgotten he has to go back to school after we return.

Beautiful sight and another day on the trail.  These kids walked like they had springs in their legs and we enjoyed our rest watching them.

A lead donkey looking the part.

All Sherpas have a tremendous ability to carry heavy loads.  They also have tremendous determination, hope, and optimism enabling them to transcend their burdens.

3/16/17
Today we walked from a nice lodge south of Lukla to a very nice lodge sitting above the landslide in Phakding. We started the day with porridge made with fresh cow milk. It was great. We passed several donkey trains on the way and Max told me he hopes to come back here some day. Many people have told him he is very strong. We saw a live mountain goat today. A number of people were gathered around and they claimed it was chased by a snow leopard and was in a state of shock. Later we ducked into a tea house for lunch and 4 monks entered and began chanting, sending Buddhist prayers out to the universe. They continued the entire time we were there. In the afternoon, Chhongba led us across the Dhude Kosi river, away from everyone else. He showed us the approximate place where his dad died about 34 years ago. Apparently he was helping a cow and fell into the cold rushing water. They never found any sign of his body. We walked quietly up a steep path in a pine forest until we came to the best lodge so far. It sits on a hilltop away from everything (trekkers and buildings). We are the only guests here. The place has solid wood paneling (cut by hand), a hot shower (not for us--only when the sun shines), a Western toilet, and European door levers. We celebrated our 13th day of trekking by splitting a beer. Max had hot chocolate and made friends with the barking dog tied in the yard. The rain fell hard this evening. Pasang Sherpa is soaking wet after going outside. Pasang Tamang left us tonight and will try to find another porter job in Lukla. We left all our climbing gear in Lukla, so his help was no longer needed. He is a very mild mannered and humble person, and we will miss his company. We'll see if tomorrow brings more snow. We leave for Namche in the morning. Everyone is healthy and happy.

Monks chanting in a settlement below Lukla on the way to Phakding. It was a very pleasant lunch.

Mountain goat, unusually happy to be with humans, after being chased by a snow leopard.

The best and most welcoming lodge on the entire trip.  Just beautiful.

3/17/17
We made it to Namche Bazaar without any problem. Chhongba has the runs and has been resting all evening. Things have really changed between Phakding and Namche since 2001. There are many new structures and many more tourists than before. Everyone seems to be going to Everest base camp. Many don't look like they know what they are in for. This morning we saw at least 10 helicopters going to pick up people that had to go down fast for one reason or another. Namche has also changed. The main path enters in the center of town where the bazaar use to be held. There is now a fancy fountain and cascade, nearly completed. The lodge where we are staying has a wide-screen TV and Western-style bathrooms, but still no heat. I am in my winter jacket as I write this. We watched the National Geographic channel as we ate dinner. This will all change as we go higher. The people are as diverse as ever. However, I feel there is a large segment of trekkers who seem to lack fitness and understanding of what they are attempting. I don't remember seeing this before. Chris, Max, and I are in good spirits and feeling well. We hope Chhongba feels better soon.

New entrance to Namche complete with fountain.  The place we stayed in 2001 is gone due to earthquake damage.

View of Kongde Ri from the room at the lodge in Namche.  This is said to be a trekking peak rising to 20.299 feet.

3/18/17
Rest day in Namche. We had a nice breakfast (apple pancakes) and watched Dr. Jeff repair injured animals on the wide-screen TV. When that show was followed by kick-boxing, we went for a walk to the museum with Pasang Sherpa. The view of the high peaks was breath-taking. After this first peek at Ama Dablam, Lhotse and Everest, we took Pasang to the best cafe in Namche. We all had a hot drink and a taste of their fine pastries. This was a very nice treat. Before the treat we found the bazaar and stocked up on half-price Snickers bars. They are the perfect encouragement for a tired body. Tomorrow we head to Deboche (maybe 4 hours). I now have a mild cold but feel pretty good. Chris' cold is still hanging on. Max is doing great.

3/19/17
We had a nice breakfast and left for Deboche around 9:00 am. I think the temperature was in the 30's F. We started to pass people as we climbed out of Namche. The three of us are feeling fit and healthy now. We enjoyed a nice lunch of Ramen at the Dudh Kosi tea house. The walk up to Thangboche was about 1 1/2 hours. By Thangboche we had passed nearly all the trekkers who left Namche this morning. Max looks brilliant. He has received many compliments on the trail and in the tea houses. At the lodge in Deboche, we met people from Israel, Denmark, Spain, Australia, and of course Nepal. We sat around the wood stove and told stories.  It was a lot of fun and Max was often the center of attention.

3/20/17
We had a slow start this morning, again sitting around the wood stove talking. Everyone left when our breakfast arrived. Eventually we left too and began passing people. The north facing slopes out of Deboche were covered in snow and ice after a snow last night. We passed a rigid truss bridge that had failed in the recent floods. The rock footing had broken away on one side. Again we passed all the people released from Namche the same day we left. We appear to be much more fit than the rest of the trekkers. Some people look stunned when they see Max go by them singing or saying "Namaste". We made the trip to Dingboche in 3 1/2 hours (with a tea stop). There are many more trekkers here now than in 2001 or 2006. Getting in front of them makes the experience more enjoyable for the three of us. It allows us to quietly walk at our own pace without having to listen to large group gossip. Looks like it will be cold and cloudy tonight. Island Peak, Lhotse, Ama Dablam are all in the clouds now, but we were able to walk in the sunshine to get here.

Steel bridge collapsed after its footing failed on the far side of the river. A victim of recent flooding or earthquake.

Turquoise water of the Dudh Kosi near the collapsed bridge

Dingboche, in the Imja Valley, with Island Peak (Imja Tse) in the background, flanked by the towering south face of Lotse (left) and the sacred cone of Cho Polu (right).

3/21/17
The clouds came in last night around supper time and light snow began to fall. In the middle of the night, high winds racked Dingboche. The dust carried by the wind covered everything inside the lodge. Even the toilet seat was covered in dust. We woke around 6:00 am. During the night, I recognized the same variable breathing pattern I had experienced during the 2001 trip, so this morning I took 250 mg of Diamox and I will take another 250 mg tonight. Today's highlight was a hike to Chukhung followed by a steeper hike to the top of Chukhung Ri. Using Chhongba's cell phone, we estimated the summit at about 18,000 feet. The weather was perfect and the scenery stunning in all 360 degrees. We took many pictures and appreciated the place awhile before leaving. Max set two personal records: sleeping at 14,500 feet and hiking to 18,000. He has exceeded our hopes and dreams. Chhongba told some people in the tea house last night that Max was the strongest person in the room. That might just be true. He plodded up Chukhung Ri with no fuss. We were gaining steadily on the people in front of us who had a huge head start (we couldn't even see them when we started). At the top, Max was building a rock cairn for fun, rather than resting. On the way down, we passed all the people who started down slightly ahead of us. Lower down, Max was jumping bushes and rocks like we didn't do anything the whole day. He is healthy, happy, and strong in will and body. Tomorrow we leave for Lobuche.

Hiking to the settlement of Chukhung before summitting Chukhung Ri at 18,000 feet.

Having some tea before the hike up the Chukhung Ri.

Our family with Chhongba at 18,000 feet on Chukhung Ri.  Thanks Chhongba.  Nuptse stands above at 25,791 feet.

Looking at Ama Dablam from Chukhung Ri.  About 18,000 feet where the picture was taken.

Max and Chhongba on Chukhung Ri with Ama Dablam

Walking down the Ri enjoying the view of Chukhung with Ama Dablam across the way.

Looking to the east from Chukhung Ri.  From left to right:  Island Peak 20,305 feet, Makalu 27,825 feet, and Baruntse 23,389 feet

3/22/17
We pulled into Lobuche after a pleasurable 5-hour hike (including Ramen break). The settlement of Lobuche sits below Lobuche Peak at about 16,100 feet. Sleeping here will be a new altitude record for Max. Our plan is to sleep here, wake up around 4:30 am and leave for Kala Patthar around 5:00. We are trying to be at the top around the time the sun strikes Mount Everest in the morning. The weather today was again spectacular (warm, crystal clear, and no clouds). On our way to Lobuche this morning, as we often do, we started with porridge and apple pancakes for breakfast. Chhongba was anxious to get going because he new there were throngs of trekkers with the same plan leaving Dingboche as we were. You want to arrive in Lobuche early enough to rent a room. We left the tea house in Dingboche through the back door and began a direct route up the hillside behind the lodge. Morning starts are always hard: full stomach, 3 cups of tea, and often over-dressed for the severity of the steep start. So we climbed to the top of an old lateral moraine above Periche and saw throngs of people converging like cattle on a wild-west cattle drive. We recognized all our acquaintances from earlier on the trip. The Dutch couple started with us and dropped back (they are traveling around the world). The Malaysian group from Namche changed their plan of traversing Cho La pass and were happy to see us. We saw the Israelis from Deboche and they told us of someone they knew who was evacuated by helicopter in Dingboche. Then there were the two Aussies, the Spaniard and the Dane from Deboche. We said hello, and passed all of them. Again we felt strong and steady. Max is showing a superb effort. Chris is bothered by the runs and chest congestion but moves well and shows good spirit. I have some chest congestion as well and took another Diamox when we arrived here in Lobuche. My spirit is strong as is my body. I think we can blame our current strength on the fact that we have trekked for 17 days (not including rest days) and an estimated 102 miles. Tomorrow we climb Kala Patthar and return to Lobuche for the evening. The rooms here are called super deluxe. Each room has 2 single beds with box spring mattresses. Box springs and other awkward loads, or loads like woodstoves that are too heavy to carry in pairs balanced on a yak, are carried by porters.

Traveling from Dingboche to Lobuche looking directly at Lobuche Peak

Head water of the Dudh Kosi river as we approach Lobuche

3/23/17
Last night the dining hall was packed. The lodge owner walked over and handed Max a Toblerone candy bar. We all said thank you. We were just talking about our supply of treats for today's hike. We only had 2 candy bars for 3 people. We woke at 4;30 am. Max had no issues sleeping at 16,100 feet. We met downstairs at 5:00 am as we had planned. Soon we were on a trot covering ground rapidly on a rocky trail, with no food or drink before starting out. Two hours later, and after crossing a Himalayan glacier, we were in Gorak Shep. The quick pace on an empty stomach pooped me out by 7:00. We powered down 2 pieces of string cheese and 2 cups of tea each before heading up Kala Patthar. The weather was again spectacular (bright sunshine, no wind and no clouds). Max again did not seem to notice how high we were. The terrain looks pretty easy, but it's tough at over 18,000'. Near the top he put on the Go-Pro and narrated the final ascent to his new personal record of 18,500 feet. We took many pictures before heading down. This was a 9 hour day and we were very tired upon returning to the lodge. Max and Chris had Ramen noodles for lunch and I had french fries. We are all looking forward to expanding our dietary selection once we leave Nepal. Except for Chris: 18 types of potato on the menu suits her just fine. Right now I am craving good meat. I have heard of 3 travelers becoming very sick because they took the chance and ate meat. We have been here 24 days and I have survived on rice, noodles, porridge and eggs. It is hard to resist something called yak steak or hamburger but it is also wise.

Leaving Lobuche at dawn to climb Kala Patthar

Sunrise above Nuptse

On the way to Everest base camp and Kala Patthar

Gorak Shep where the porters play volleyball in the sand.  elevation around 17,000 feet

Our objective this day:  Kala Patthar 18,514 feet, seen here as the rock hill in front of the impressive Pumori towering above at 23,494 feet

The views near the top are spectacular on this clear day.  Pumori dominating above.

This is one of Max's favorite peaks.  Lingtren Peak

Continuing to rotate clockwise as we view now looking roughly north toward Tibet :  here is the beautiful Lho La pass,  Khumbu glacier, start of the Khumbu ice fall and Everest base camp.

Here you start to see the yellow tents at Everest base camp as we look down from the top of Kala Patthar.

Mount Everest

Close up view of Mount Everest

A fantastic memory for Max

3/24/17
Today we hiked from Lobuche to Pangboche. It took 5 1/2 hours including lunch. Again the weather was beautiful. We turned sometimes to get a last look at some of the peaks and say goodbye. Here in Pangboche the weather turned cloudy just after we arrived. We went through Periche today and I had never done that before. It requires a steep climb out of the valley before meeting up with the traditional path from Namche. I usually arrive at our destination for the day in a tired state. I think it is mostly due to my diet as I described yesterday. It has become demoralizing. Max, on the other hand, has expanded his ideas of what is edible, and has easily been the healthiest and strongest of us all. He is very impressive. Tomorrow we return to Namche where we will celebrate Chris' 53rd birthday. We are at 13,100 feet right now, about 3,000 feet lower than last night.

Walking toward Periche

A new route for us to Pangboche on the other side of the Dudh Kosi from Deboche

3/25/17
Chris' birthday. We celebrated at the Namche Cafe where we ate on our honeymoon in 2006. She turned 53 and is still going strong (especially up hill). We put in a long 8 hours today. Max tried stoking his fire with 2 pieces of toast this morning. About the time the toast wore off (above Phortse), Chhongba asked if we wanted to have lunch at a tea house in the sky across the valley from us. I jokingly said, "Tomorrow?" Max said, "Yeah!" So we started down to the river crossing. By the time we started up the almost 2-hour ascent, Max was out of gas. He pressed on with shear determination. We had a talk about eating toast for breakfast before a long trekking day. I think he learned a hard lesson and showed strong determination. Chhongba was so thirsty he was asking Max for a drink of his water. I tried talking to Max and had a difficult time forming the words because my mouth was so dry. Twenty days of walking and we are still putting in hard efforts. Phortse is a beautiful, idyllic village of potato farmers. Mong La is an impressive pass (took pictures) with incredible views. You hike from Namche to Phortse to go to the Gokyo area and Cho La pass.

add photo of Mong La

3/26/17
We walked into Phakding after 5 hours of walking from Namche. It was fun to see all the trekkers fresh off the plane in Lukla. Their clothes are sparkling clean and fresh. Their faces are filled with optimism. At a tea break I noticed a complete family from India (mother, father, and 3 kids around Max's age). They were following the train of people up to Namche. Max took a fall going down some steep stairs and gave me a scare. He appears to be OK after falling on a rock step. Last night we heard of an 11 year old boy on his way to Everest base camp. He had been down with a stomach bug for at least 30 hours. I spoke with his dad this morning to offer encouragement and to see if they needed any medication. The boy was improving slowly and I wished them a good trip. Max had to go outside after lunch to get his ya-yas out. We don't see anyone else with ya-yas. I am very proud of him.

add photo of Max fencing

3/27/17
Like usual, Chris and I started the morning with porridge. Max chose toast again but this time he had two eggs with it. We said goodbye to the Canadian family, the yoga woman from South Africa, and the young man from South Carolina. The woman who owned the tea house had a brother who worked at Sherpa's restaurant in Boulder. She was Chhongba's cousin, and would like to visit the US herself. We meandered along the Dudh Khosi river and eventually started the steep climb up to Chhongba's house. Max's toast had already worn off. We went to a house just above Chhongba's house. No one lives in his house except the bees, who have built a hive in the upper story. An old woman and her lady friend made us some noodle soup and boiled potatoes. After lunch we walked along the hydro electric water line and new path Chhongba made down to the river. What an impressive amount of work. The generator puts out 15 kwatts. Each house gets 1 kwatt. Then it was up the other side and on to Lukla. Again we're gassed and it is our last day of trekking. We trekked 22 days and roughly 132 miles. Our last day was 7 hours (including lunch). A feeling of joy and success washed over me as we entered Lukla. All the people heading north were clean and ready to go. All the people heading south were worn, bedraggled, and happy. Such a stark distinction on the main path through Lukla. We met our doctor friend (Taiwanese from Deboche). He looked battered and happy (always smiling). He lost some skin on his face from sunburn but he insisted it would be like new in a month or two. The Dutch people made it to Everest base camp. They heard mention of Max at 3 different places up high. We need to be ready to go tomorrow at 6:30 am. The flight leaves at 8:30 am and we look forward to showers in Kathmandu.

add photo of hydro project and path

add photo and dialog about plane

add photo and dialog about end of trip in Kathmandu (pitching coins, fencing, visiting sherpa friends)